You might not leave.Via Banchi di Sopra 85 (00 39 0577 56011 fax: 5601555 Siena's best hotel is located in the heart of the city, close to Piazza del Campo. When you are sitting on the terrace at La Volpaia having a glass of the local vernaccia and some wild boar sausage at sunset, tag me in your Instagram. It’s a tiny country inn in a stunningly beautiful spot halfway between Florence and Siena, and close to San Gimignano. La Volpaia "After staying for a weekend, I quit my job and moved here for four years. Inside the truly gorgeous Carolingian chapel, as you listen to the eerie chants and think about medieval pilgrims, look for incredible carvings of Biblical scenes, animals, and fanciful creatures on the columns." Sant’ Antimo "This is an active 12th-century monastery where the brothers live and gather for Gregorian chants at certain times of the day, depending on the season. My characters Michael and Scottie both have interesting encounters at this small luxury hotel that has hosted such formidable guests as the Duchess of Windsor and Princess Grace of Monaco." In an Eloise moment from my childhood, I stayed here when I was 12, and began my lifelong love affair with Tuscany. Villa Scacciapensieri "A historic hotel in the hills outside of Siena. Don’t look at any pictures or websites just go there and be surprised." ![]() Take a picnic and plan to spend the afternoon-it’s in the middle of lovely countryside. I don’t even want to describe it-just go and see both the small round chapel and the ruins for yourself. This is one of my favorite places in the whole world. In the book I had Carlo (an Italian aristocrat) take Scottie here in his car, but the first time I ever saw it, I was on horseback. ![]() San Galgano "Magical ruins of an abbey about an hour southwest of Siena. The entire route is now marked and open-do a short section or plan a longer journey." The Via Francigena is the ancient pilgrims’ route from Canterbury to Rome that brought thousands of people-and their languages, culture, goods-through the center of Tuscany. Via Francigena "This very ancient route that runs through Siena, once for Crusaders, is now a hiking, biking, and horse-riding trail. Then sit back and watch the parade of people go by." I like Nannini, because it’s been there for a hundred years or so. It’s easy to pack, one of a kind, and has many uses."īar Pasticceria Nannini "After you have hoofed it all over Siena and bought too many ceramics, stop for a ridiculously huge and expensive gelato at one of the cafes lining Piazza del Campo. Stop at Antica Siena in the corner of Piazza del Campo and buy the perfect tile. If you listen hard, you will hear some medieval gossip still echoing under the arches…."Īntica Siena "You can’t leave Siena without some ceramics or your pet sitter will be severely disappointed. I love sitting by this fountain and thinking about how central water is to life, and how before indoor plumbing, this was a place for women to gather and chat as they did washing. Gettyįontebranda "A medieval fountain in Siena that dates back to 1081. When visiting Siena's Duomo, don't forget to look down. In The Italian Party, Scottie is a little haunted by Pia’s ghost, for some reasons I won’t get into here." She appears in Dante’s Purgatorio, and the haunting passage is inscribed on the corner of the building: 'Remember me, for I am Pia…' For bonus points, follow her unhappy route to Maremma and pass over the Ponte della Pia outside Siena. ![]() The family’s most famous member is poor Pia, whose husband threw her out the window of their castle in Maremma. Piazza Tolomei "In this small square in Siena you will find Palazzo Tolomei, the oldest private residence in Siena. Join me on my quest to find the very best plate of pici cacio e pepe." Zhivago."Īntica Trattoria Papei "My characters like this historic restaurant just off Piazza del Campo, and so do I. She would have been aware, though, of founder Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, who was a fascinating left-wing publisher/activist famous for being the first in the world to publish Dr. Libreria Feltrinelli "In The Italian Party, Scottie traipses up and down Siena’s Via Banchi di Sopra many times, though this bookstore wasn’t there yet in 1956. It’s eerie and beautiful to stand atop the one finished wall and think of how history changed for the Sienese-and all of Europe-in that moment." Mid-construction, the plague hit, and the workers dropped their hammers and fled. Top of the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo "You can climb to the top of the Torre del Mangia in Siena and get great views, but I love the views from the facciatone, or 'big face' of what was supposed to be a larger version of the Duomo.
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